While I was visiting Cadaqués a few weeks ago I made a stop by the home of Salvador Dalí, located in Portlligat. He first moved in around 1930, when it was a small fisherman’s shack right near the beach. Over the next forty years though, he began to purchase the surrounding properties, eventually building himself quite an idyllic compound where he could paint and and hold exquisite parties.
It was interesting to look around the space he and his wife Gala had created together. I didn’t quite know what to expect as his work is quite surreal. In reality though, I found the space quite interesting and beautiful in a sort of hodge-podge kind of way. They had many fascinating belongings, and ultimately, created a very idyllic getaway to live their lives along the peaceful seaside. I hope you enjoy this little tour of things I found interesting in their space.
A key part of a home (in my opinion) is how much greenery or nature you can bring into it, and conversely, surround it with. Perhaps Giles Miller Studio feels the same way? Their first completed residential property, Woven, is located 100m from the cliffs and sandy beaches of Broadstairs, Kent, and features a unique sculptural facade that breaks down barriers between the building’s internal spaces and the surrounding natural planting and trees, inviting nature to grow up the outside of the house while also being visible from within it.
“The buildings we inhabit have a direct impact on our state of mind. Through their design they are curators of light and sound, and they can expose us to nature and enrich our interactions with dramatically positive effect. We believe that this aspiration, in synchrony with our latest surface and sculptural experimentation in the studio, has spawned a wholly unique architectural typology.”
It’s always romantic to see buildings with creeping ivys or vines, nature slowly enveloping a stucture. Though here they’ve been so smart about it, creating an exoskeleton of sorts that encourages jasmine, clematis, and other plants to grow through the latticework, where no harm will come to the building.
Traveling around and getting to know Spain has been a priority for Kyle and I. Slowly but surely, we’ve begun to visit the different towns along the Costa Brava, north and south of our home in Barcelona. Recently, we had a short stay in Cadaqués, which is a couple hours north, easily accessible by high-speed train followed by a curvy, mountainous cab ride. Cadaqués is well-known for being the home of surrealist painter Dalí and his wife Gala (more on that in an upcoming post) though the gorgeous, rocky beaches, white painted buildings, and painterly sunsets are the biggest draws for us.
It’s a very small town filled with friendly locals, most of which know each other, as we as MANY tourists visiting from France. Getting around town is easy, you get to know the streets rather quickly, though the hills can be a workout no matter what your level of physical activity 🥵 With all the tourism, it was a challenge to find places that were unique, offering food, drinks, or shopping that delighted us. That said, if you’re looking to make a journey, here are the places I would recommend you add to your to-do list.
Pepa
One of the best surprises was Pepa, a small clothing store that was big on carrying exciting brands. Think Loewe and Jacquemus, as well as sunglasses, swimsuits and bags that would complete any vacation look. I visited the store twice and had to fight every urge not to buy something.
Raviyu
We spotted Raviyu and (it’s charming terrace) as we drove into Cadaqués. Thankfully, it wasn’t only good looks. The wood fired pizzas were delicious, with crusts that were bubbled and lightly charred, and topped with fresh meats and veggies. To top it off, the service was friendly and the atmosphere was lively.
Salvador Dalí’s House
I mean, it would be really silly to go Cadaqués and not stop by the home of Dalí, who’s home was as odd an eclectic as you might imagine. I’ll share a bit more later in an upcoming post, suffice to say, it’s well worth your time. Be sure to snag tickets in advance, the house is small, and so are the groups you take to tour the space.
Bar Llevant
Directly across from Dali’s house is a small café called Bar Llevant, where we ended up stopping by a couple of times for food or a drink. The fare is simple, you can never go wrong with sandwiches and cava, and what really sold the place for me was the incredible warmth of the owners. Pro tip, grab your food and sit on the terrace upstairs. It’s delightful, and you can have a pause from the tourists.
Brown Sugar
There wasn’t a lot of time to visit many bars during our stay, though in my searching, Brown Sugar seemed the most exciting of the bunch. As you walk in the bar is lined with dozens of piña, perfect for making fresh piña coladas, which were delicious. The bar is tucked away in a leafy corner of the city that feels spiritually miles away from the city, and the feeling I got from the staff was “friendly hippies,” which I found charming.
Batalla
As we explored the city we happened by Batalla, which caught my eye thanks to the use of a bold, condensed, sans typeface for their logo. The restaurant has a beautiful spot on the harbor, and a delicious menu that felt like something you would find in Paris. Lots of interesting takes on Catalan cuisine, probably my favorite meal of the trip.
Joia
Every night, basically everyone in town came out to Joia for their gelato fix. EVERYONE. The place was packed every night we were there, and with good reason. Their menu has 34 different flavors, both dairy and non-dairy options, and it’s all handmade in Cadaqués.
NARITA
Sadly, we didn’t have a chance to make it to Narita though it’s hit on our list for next time. Japanese meets Mediterranean in this new-ish spot in the center of Cadaqués. The real draw for me is their selection of natural and orange wines, which based on what I saw on their Insta, is top notch.
