The Fox is Black

9 January, 2024

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Travel

The Fox Is Black City Guide to Madrid

Last week I visited Madrid, Spain’s capital, for the first time, extremely excited to see what wonders the city held. Over my week of visiting I was able to track down some really cool spots, great places to eat and shop in particular. Yet in all honesty, I wasn’t smitten with the city! It felt like it lacked a unique POV, it felt very generically “big European city” which, you know, isn’t a bad thing. Maybe it was also the fact that I was visiting in winter? I have a feeling that if I visited in late spring or early summer my opinion of the city might be different.

I also should say that I wasn’t a huge fan of either El Prado or Reina Sofia. Both places were incredibly packed, El Prado more-so, and the signage and flow of both museums were both confusing and frustrating. It was great to see Guernica, and I loved seeing all the Goya’s, but man, it felt like it was so much work to see anything!

Still, there are lots of great places to explore in the city. I had a number of incredible meals and was able to find some really next level places to shop. Here are my recommendations of places to visit “El Corazón de España.” And as I always do, this is my Google Maps of locations I bookmarked before and during the trip, in case you’re interested!

ARAIA →

The first place I ate the when I arrived in Madrid set the tone for a series of amazing meals over the trip. ARAIA is a conceptual restaurant with a menu finding inspiration from a mythical, Mediterranean island called Araia, and those people’s culture. Don’t let the fanciful story mislead you. The service was impeccable and very friendly, my partner and I (plus our two dogs!) felt welcome as soon as we walked through the door. The vibes were spot on, plenty of mood and texture, great lighting throughout, and a soundtrack for the night that started out with The Roots. And of course, the food, which I felt was one of the best meals I had during the trip. The star dish in my mind being their take on a cassoulet, which really hit the spot on a cold, winter evening.

Mediterranean Restaurant — www.araia.es

Formaje →

One of the most beautiful cheese shops in the world. Formaje represents a quesariá that combines old world pragmatism with timeless interior design. The selection of cheeses is overwhelming though the friendly staff makes it easy to find your perfect queso for snacking.

Quesariá / Cheese Shop — www.formaje.com

SPORTIVO ->

There is one place I visited during my trip that I really wish existed in Barcelona, and that is SPORTIVO. A pair of clothing stores in located in the Conde Duque area, they carry, in my opinion, the best brands out there. Think A Kind of Guise, Dries Van Noten, BEAMS PLUS, Lady White Co. and so much more, amazing items for everyone. I loved that the store was packed with clothing, and you felt like you could dig around to find uncovered gems. I snagged this beautiful BEAMS PLUS cardigan and I’m obsessed with it!

Clothing Store — www.sportivostore.com

GOTA ->

One of the very first spots on my list was GOTA, the quaint little wine bar which I wrote about last year. There’s so much to enjoy about the space, with it’s custom built bar area, a record player and mixer embedded within. The seating is limited but cozy, and the wine selection offered me a number of things I hadn’t heard of.

Natural Wine Bar — www.gotawine.es

WOW Concept →

The other most amazing place to go shopping is WOW Concept. There are two stores in Madrid, though I was only able to visit the Serrano location, which you can se above. Think Dover Street Market kind of vibes, lots to choose from, floors and floors of interesting products to peruse. Funny enough, I didn’t have this on my map initially, I luckily walked past it. Be sure to take the time to experience every floor, well worth it.

Clothing Store — www.wowconcept.com

Llama Inn ->

So the other amazing meal I had was at Llama Inn, a contemporary Peruvian restaurant that is neighbors with GOTA. All the food was incredibly inventive, like a quinoa dish with banana, the cocktails were so tasty, and everything was incredibly fresh. I have to say the service here was also exquisite, so major props to Madrid on that.

Peruvian Restaurant — www.llamainnmadrid.com

ACID Bakehouse ->

I think the most eclectic and interesting spot I went for coffee had to be ACID, a chain of trendy (in a good way!) coffee shops. I stopped by their Bakehouse location which is, obviously, where they make all their baked goods. The coffees are extremely well prepared, and the aforementioned baked goods are top notch. I loved their grilled cheese sandwich with house-made kimchi. In fact, I liked it so much I brought a bottle home with me!

Coffee Shop and Bakery — www.acidcafe.es

Veja →

There were few stores that really wow’ed me but I have to hand it to Veja, who has created a flagship store unlike any other. Instead of adding onto the space, the space was stripped back to to show the age and craft that went into it. Again, this is another space by Plantea Estudio, who are basically the kings of fantastic interiors in Madrid.

Sneaker Store — www.veja-store.com
25 August, 2023

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Food & Drink

Anthony Bourdain in San Sebastián

Recently, I was made aware of the fact that Anthony Bourdain had visited San Sebastián, and the Basque Country, on three separate occasions: in 2001 with A Cook’s Tour, in 2007 on No Reservations, and in 2016 for Parts Unknown. Like anyone else who admires Bourdain, I had to see if I could watch these episodes. Sure enough, I was able to find his last visit. It was fascinating to see the places he loved, the other areas around San Sebastián he also visited, and of course, see the area through his eyes.

What made watching this more exciting is that I’m about to head out for a long lunch at Restaurante Arzak. Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena are the owners and chef de cuisine of Arzak, and play a huge part in the episode, with Bourdain calling Juan Mari not only his friend, but his mentor. The fact that Bourdain found this place so special to go to only gives even more weight to the experience, I’m so excited to have a chance to eat here.
16 August, 2023

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Interior Design

El Departamento Designs a Fresh Feeling Shop for PJ Lobster

El Departamento, a Spanish interior design studio, has designed an eyewear store in Barcelona for PJ Lobster, an eyewear brand founded in 2018. The store features a sculpted interior with slight variations in tone and texture that differentiate surfaces. The design studio has been collaborating with PJ Lobster since the brand’s inception, and the store is described as a “challenging visual exercise.” I think it looks incredible.

The interior is designed to showcase the brand’s glasses and create a unique shopping experience for customers. They played a lot with textures, which is why I love this space, including “small-grained velvety micro-cement” on the floors throughout, to the rough textured plaster on the walls that give them such a unique texture and tooth. Stainless steel was used for the shelving throughout, giving a strong contrast to the rocky surfaces throughout.
14 August, 2023

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Wallpapers

Artistic Details — Mobile Wallpapers Inspired by the Guggenheim Bilbao

As always, I take a ton of photos when I visit museums, and my trip to the Guggenheim Bilbao was no different. There’s something so captivating in all the small details. Many times we think of art as “masterpieces” thus they must be infallible. Then you get a bit closer to see how the process may have unfolded, a brush stroke on it’s own journey, a dollop of errant paint, or loose threads unraveling over time. So I thought, let’s celebrate the details.

I’ve edited together some of my favorite photos I snapped, cleaned them up a bit, cropped them to work for (most) mobile devices, et voilà. I’m still figuring out the details for a full launch of wallpapers, I thought this would be a nice pre-cursor, more to come soon 💙

Download the wallpapers here →
14 August, 2023

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Travel

Spending a Day at the Guggenheim in Bilbao

A quick one hour car ride from San Sebastián and you’re in Bilbao, home to the Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim museum. Opened in 1997, the museum features contemporary art from around the world, as well as featuring the work of prominent Basque artists from the area. As you approach the museum, I walked up via the Nervión River side, it looks rather massive. The undulating shapes and forms are quite remarkable, and how the light hits the structure from so many unique angles. Living in Los Angeles, I’ve seen Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall dozens of times, and yet the Guggenheim does feel like it’s own unique creature.

Continue Reading →
9 August, 2023

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Photography

A Trip to the Aquarium de San Sebastián

Yesterday, we took a trip over to the San Sebastián Aquarium, hoping to see some cute marine life. Located on the edge of the Donostiako portua, the aquarium tells the history of the town’s port, the evolution of boats and fishing practice, and has a beautiful area showcasing the sea life that lives in the waters nearby. Of course, I had to take photos of the little critters (I’m channeling my 2009 Flickr energy here) and wanted to share.
8 August, 2023

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Food & Drink

Tasting Spontaneous Fermentations with Bizio Cider

Knowing we’d be in San Sebastián for a fair amount of time, I had to figure out where I could score some natural wine. Thankfully I found PIRIPI, a quaint wine shop opened only two months ago by a husband and wife team, focusing on Spanish natural wines, beers, and ciders. And while browsing their great selection I found BIZIO, a group of Basque cider makers.

They use natural brewing methods (“ancestral petillant-naturel“) which means they intervene as little possible in the bottling and production process. They are made with 100% fruit, without additions –no sulphites, yeasts, or sugars– unfiltered and from spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts.

I’m also a big fan of their label designs. It’s very much in the vein of edgy, slightly punk style that is consistent with a lot of natural wine and cider makers. The feeling with many producers is that what they do is an act of rebellion from large-scale, mass produced wine houses. So the labels themselves should communicate that this is something, quite literally, counter cultural. It’s all beautifully done by Amaia Moran and Brou Gràfic.
1 August, 2023

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Interior Design

Plantea Estudio Designs the “Dark, Stony, and Secluded” Gota Wine Bar

There’s something so peaceful and magical about a small, dimly lit bar. At this point in my life, I personally prefer tucking in for a nice glass of wine while nibbling on some olives with a couple of close friends. And that’s why I’m so taken with Gota, a small wine bar in Madrid that was designed by the team at Plantea Estudio.

They’ve managed to transform a rather small space, only about 70 square meters, and use it to their advantage. The first space is brighter, fitted with a combination of grey stone and plaster, grounded by a beautiful wooden counter with a built-in turntable. Beyond this main space is the moodier, cave like space covered in a beautiful red-orange textured walls, meant to reflect the history of brickwork in the area. I’m obsessed with how light is being utilized in the space, with the small windows that overlook a garden, and other small warm lights that highlight the space in a non-intrusive way. It sets the mood for the space, making even a small cave feel cozy and comfortable.
18 July, 2023

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Candles

A Funky Candle by Morana

I discovered Morano, a small ceramic goods company here in Spain who create very eye-catching pots and plates. They create A Funky Candle, which as they describe, smells like “an echo of a fun dinner party at home, where perfumes merge together creating a special ambiance full of different hues. Cognac and vanilla with a spicy twist, this candle will get you in the mood for a cozy night in.” I’m totally sold. How cute is the glazing too? I love how unique the patterns turn out.
6 July, 2023

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Graphic Design

Discovering Found Lettering and Type in Cadaqués

While roaming around Cadaqués I kept noticing some amazing type and lettering around the city that I wanted to share. There’s such a charm and beauty to the handmade quality of each. I really appreciate how many of the things I found were created out of creative spontaneity or necessity. A massive slab of rock with words written in chalk or branches painted black to spell out the name of a restaurant. It’s inspired me to pick up a brush and start working with ink again.
3 July, 2023

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Travel

The Fox Is Black Travel Guide — Cadaqués, Spain

Traveling around and getting to know Spain has been a priority for Kyle and I. Slowly but surely, we’ve begun to visit the different towns along the Costa Brava, north and south of our home in Barcelona. Recently, we had a short stay in Cadaqués, which is a couple hours north, easily accessible by high-speed train followed by a curvy, mountainous cab ride. Cadaqués is well-known for being the home of surrealist painter Dalí and his wife Gala (more on that in an upcoming post) though the gorgeous, rocky beaches, white painted buildings, and painterly sunsets are the biggest draws for us.

It’s a very small town filled with friendly locals, most of which know each other, as we as MANY tourists visiting from France. Getting around town is easy, you get to know the streets rather quickly, though the hills can be a workout no matter what your level of physical activity 🥵 With all the tourism, it was a challenge to find places that were unique, offering food, drinks, or shopping that delighted us. That said, if you’re looking to make a journey, here are the places I would recommend you add to your to-do list.

Pepa

One of the best surprises was Pepa, a small clothing store that was big on carrying exciting brands. Think Loewe and Jacquemus, as well as sunglasses, swimsuits and bags that would complete any vacation look. I visited the store twice and had to fight every urge not to buy something.

Raviyu

We spotted Raviyu and (it’s charming terrace) as we drove into Cadaqués. Thankfully, it wasn’t only good looks. The wood fired pizzas were delicious, with crusts that were bubbled and lightly charred, and topped with fresh meats and veggies. To top it off, the service was friendly and the atmosphere was lively.

Salvador Dalí’s House

I mean, it would be really silly to go Cadaqués and not stop by the home of Dalí, who’s home was as odd an eclectic as you might imagine. I’ll share a bit more later in an upcoming post, suffice to say, it’s well worth your time. Be sure to snag tickets in advance, the house is small, and so are the groups you take to tour the space.

Bar Llevant

Directly across from Dali’s house is a small café called Bar Llevant, where we ended up stopping by a couple of times for food or a drink. The fare is simple, you can never go wrong with sandwiches and cava, and what really sold the place for me was the incredible warmth of the owners. Pro tip, grab your food and sit on the terrace upstairs. It’s delightful, and you can have a pause from the tourists.

Brown Sugar

There wasn’t a lot of time to visit many bars during our stay, though in my searching, Brown Sugar seemed the most exciting of the bunch. As you walk in the bar is lined with dozens of piña, perfect for making fresh piña coladas, which were delicious. The bar is tucked away in a leafy corner of the city that feels spiritually miles away from the city, and the feeling I got from the staff was “friendly hippies,” which I found charming.

Batalla

As we explored the city we happened by Batalla, which caught my eye thanks to the use of a bold, condensed, sans typeface for their logo. The restaurant has a beautiful spot on the harbor, and a delicious menu that felt like something you would find in Paris. Lots of interesting takes on Catalan cuisine, probably my favorite meal of the trip.

Joia

Every night, basically everyone in town came out to Joia for their gelato fix. EVERYONE. The place was packed every night we were there, and with good reason. Their menu has 34 different flavors, both dairy and non-dairy options, and it’s all handmade in Cadaqués.

NARITA

Sadly, we didn’t have a chance to make it to Narita though it’s hit on our list for next time. Japanese meets Mediterranean in this new-ish spot in the center of Cadaqués. The real draw for me is their selection of natural and orange wines, which based on what I saw on their Insta, is top notch.
15 June, 2023

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Writing

Andre Aciman and the Joys of Traveling Alone

When we travel to different cities or countries, a little part of our brain unlocks. That overwhelming sense of mystery, intrigue, and excitement. Now nearly 11 months into living in Spain, Kyle and I are doing our best to explore our new home, taking long weekends and day trips, trying not to overthink it.

A recent piece by Andre Aciman captured the joys of being away from the place you call home, and how nice it can be to sit and savor it:

“What I’m looking for is more in me than outside of me, just as sitting in this café allows me not to stop time but to distend it, to dispel all my thoughts and indulge in the eros of something unusual. I want to forget time. I don’t like time. When was time ever my friend? I don’t even want Orvieto to give me something new. What I want, maybe, is to be given something back, some intangible something I believe I once cradled but lost track of and can scarcely remember.“